Gringa in Korea

Sunday, March 28, 2010

Alpsee

I spent the day today hiking around the castles of Schwangau,in the Alps of southern Bavaria, and I found lots of signs for Alpsee. At first I giggled. That's what you'd say if you tripped on a hike here. (Alpsee!) More realistically, I thought it was pointing out overlooks where you could view the Alps (Alps see). Nope. It's the name of the lake that sits between the two castles of the Mad King, Ludwig. :)

I started my day with a wonderful German breakfast at the B&B where I'm staying. I have a tiny room with a fantastic view of Neuschwanstein and the Alps. It's a five minute walk into the little town that developed between the castles for the tourists, and from there my adventure began. I started with a tour of Schloss Hohenschwangau, which is the castle that King Ludwig grew up in. Sadly they don't allow pictures of the interior of the castles here, but they were pretty neat. Dan will be disappointed that the ceilings were not very ornate, but the walls of Hohenschwangau were completely covered in gorgeous murals. They were painted directly on the walls with an egg-based tempera paint. The most interesting thing in this castle was a piano that was actually played by Wagner. This yellow castle was pretty, but fairly basic since it was actually a hunting residence.

After the short tour of the interior, I headed out the back for a hike through the woods behind the castle. There are several lakes in the area, and I became a little disoriented when I hiked down to the wrong one! I found my way back to the Alpsee and to town without too much trouble, and had a gorgeous hike in the process. Once back in town, I grabbed the tourist bus up the mountain since it's a pretty steep climb to Neuschwanstein. The bus drops you off above the castle where you can hike to Marienbrucken, which is a bridge that spans a huge gorge and waterfall. From the bridge you have incredible views of Neuschwanstein and the surrounding area. I hiked past the bridge, and was headed for the river bed that feeds the waterfall, but the climb down was too steep for me. I now have a better appreciation of alpine walking sticks. :) So I settled for sitting and having a picnic lunch in the woods before my second castle tour.

Neuschwanstein is one of Germany's most famous castles....mostly because Walt Disney used it as a model for the castle he designed for Cinderella. Also because it's beautiful. :) Ludwig built the castle as an homage to Wagner whom he greatly admired, and each room is decorated based on the theme from a Wagner opera. The castle isn't finished because Ludwig was declared mad, deposed, and two days later, found washed up in a lake (probably murdered) before it could be finished. He only lived there for about half a year in the finished portion. The finished bit of interior is fabulous. Complete with murals throughout and even a man-made grotto in the king's quarters. The singers' hall is said to be one of the best performance spaces in Germany because of the incredible acoustics. It was built for performances of Wagner's operas, but Ludwig never had the chance to host one. There was also a huge mosaic masterpiece on the floor of one of the rooms, and the carving in the king's bedroom took fourteen guys four years to complete. Awesome. The canopy of his bed was all neo-gothic flying buttresses and church spires. My only disappointment was how quickly they pushed us through. You can only take guided tours, and those only last 30 minutes. You can't take pictures inside here either, so you have to absorb the beauty as you run by. I must also take a moment and mention the swans. Ludwig loved them, so they were everywhere. Chandeliers, flower vases, door handles, wild ones outside in the lakes, and several murals depicting Wagner's operas about the Knight of the Swan. Neuschwanstein even means "New Swan Stone." The last thing you get to see is the kitchen. Modern by the standards, this castle had a kitchen that I would have enjoyed cooking in. It was huge!

I finished my evening up with a dinner of deer goulash with cranberries and spaetzle, which are homemade noodles, and the required german dark beer. After all that hiking, I needed a heavy German meal. :) Tomorrow, I'm headed home.
Here are some pics of the area:
Hohenschwangau

Saturday, March 27, 2010

Hopping through Heidelberg

With the impending move back to the states, it occurred to me that I have a lot of Germany to see in a very short time, especially since I spent most of the winter hibernating rather than exploring. :) Now that the snow has cleared and the weather is warming, I've found my traveling spirits again.

My first adventure was a mix of business and pleasure. My principal allowed me to take a couple days off to attend a conference about autism in Heidelberg. The conference was incredibly informative, and I actually remained interested for two full days of information dumping. After the first day, I went out to explore the town a bit. Unfortunately, the tours of the castle and the museum entrances end at 4pm there, so I was unable to go in, but I have some lovely pics of my self-guided walking tour! Heidelberg sits right on the Neckar River, and has a gorgeous bridge that spans it and cute buildings tucked all up the hill on the other side. The main church was a crazy battleship of an odd shaped structure. I just love the lopsidedness of old buildings. I'm also told that Heidelberg is fun because it is a university town. Yep, what they don't tell you is that it is one of the oldest universities in Europe....established in 1386! You can see the young spirit in some of the older structures. One of the cool old university buildings is now a series of coffee shops on a courtyard, and the bridge is guarded by a um, well endowed monkey. Sorry, I didn't photograph his hindquarters. I had a nice German dinner of lamb goulash to cap off my sight-seeing. Today, when the conference ended, I drove straight down to Hohenschwangau to see the mad king Ludwig's castles. I'm sitting looking out my hotel window at the castle that inspired Disney's Cinderella castle. I can't wait to start exploring tomorrow! :)
Here's Heidelberg:
Heidelberg