Phnom Phen
Well, all you need in Phnom Phen is one good full day and some powerful anti-depressants. I am a firm believer that we are only doomed to repeat history if we forget about it, so I feel it is important to go and witness bits of history when you are close to them, no matter how much they turn your stomach. The capital of Cambodia was the center of Pol Pot's genocidal rule, and as such holds many reminders of the recent past. It was hard to keep in mind that the genocide here lasted until the year of my birth.
So we started the morning with a tour of the Royal Palace and the Silver Pagoda. These were much like the wats of Thailand: highly decorated, elaborate structures housing gold-leaf religious paraphernalia. We thought we had missed the silver pagoda...because it is not in fact silver, nor is it labeled as such on the tourist map they gave us. I feau pax'd here greatly by not taking my hat off in the presence of the king's elephant carriage. It wasn't in any special building, but I guess since it belonged to the king, you couldn't wear your hat in its presence. :)
After the sight-seeing we went to S-21, otherwise known as the Toul Sleng Genocide Museum. It is easy to tell that this poor building started its life as a school, but under Pol Pot, it became one of the most notorious detention facilities in the country. They have several of the torture devices and vivid descriptions of how they were used. The rooms still have blood spatters on the walls and ceilings, and some have images of the corpses that were found in them when the prison was shut down. Those who ran this facility felt that documentation of the victims was very important, so you can also walk through room after room of photographs of the men, women, and children who were processed through this camp. It is heart-wrenching, utterly painful, and unbelievable that such atrocity is possible. It was permissible to take pictures here, but I couldn't bring myself to do it. It was just too awful.
The next step on the path of history is to visit the killing fields. There are literally hundreds of mass graves around Cambodia, and indications that many more exist that haven't been found, but the killing fields just outside of Phnom Phen are home to the more than 10,000 victims that went through Toul Sleng in just 3-4 short years. Sadly it houses the remains of many others as well. To save bullets, the victims were clubbed to death, but the blows were often not fatal, so they were buried alive, or killed by the chemicals spread over their bodies to decrease the stench of decay. There is a monument here that is at least five stories tall with human skulls stacked from floor to ceiling. The grounds are still strewn with bits of clothing, and people pile the little bones they find on the ground in designated areas. It is quiet here now, but that quiet is oppressive and is not extended to those who visit.
So we started the morning with a tour of the Royal Palace and the Silver Pagoda. These were much like the wats of Thailand: highly decorated, elaborate structures housing gold-leaf religious paraphernalia. We thought we had missed the silver pagoda...because it is not in fact silver, nor is it labeled as such on the tourist map they gave us. I feau pax'd here greatly by not taking my hat off in the presence of the king's elephant carriage. It wasn't in any special building, but I guess since it belonged to the king, you couldn't wear your hat in its presence. :)
After the sight-seeing we went to S-21, otherwise known as the Toul Sleng Genocide Museum. It is easy to tell that this poor building started its life as a school, but under Pol Pot, it became one of the most notorious detention facilities in the country. They have several of the torture devices and vivid descriptions of how they were used. The rooms still have blood spatters on the walls and ceilings, and some have images of the corpses that were found in them when the prison was shut down. Those who ran this facility felt that documentation of the victims was very important, so you can also walk through room after room of photographs of the men, women, and children who were processed through this camp. It is heart-wrenching, utterly painful, and unbelievable that such atrocity is possible. It was permissible to take pictures here, but I couldn't bring myself to do it. It was just too awful.
The next step on the path of history is to visit the killing fields. There are literally hundreds of mass graves around Cambodia, and indications that many more exist that haven't been found, but the killing fields just outside of Phnom Phen are home to the more than 10,000 victims that went through Toul Sleng in just 3-4 short years. Sadly it houses the remains of many others as well. To save bullets, the victims were clubbed to death, but the blows were often not fatal, so they were buried alive, or killed by the chemicals spread over their bodies to decrease the stench of decay. There is a monument here that is at least five stories tall with human skulls stacked from floor to ceiling. The grounds are still strewn with bits of clothing, and people pile the little bones they find on the ground in designated areas. It is quiet here now, but that quiet is oppressive and is not extended to those who visit.
posted by Claire | 7:09 PM
1 Comments:
Hi, Sweetie,
I have just read everything posted since December 11, and what a life you lead!
I waited too long to comment and there is so much I wouldn't know where to begin. As regards the atrocities in Cambodia, such things are also beyond comprehension for me. I felt the same way when I was 12 or 13 and the pictures began coming back from the Nazi concentration camps. No matter how deep it recedes into my psyche, something will never be the same. War I understand -- the need to defend, perhaps, but atrocity is a human capability and an evil I do not comprehend.
But most of what you wrote is an adventure and so well expressed and fun to read. I promise to keep more current. (Much of it made me hungry.)
Much love to you,
George
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